Traveling Abuna Yemata Guh, Ethiopia’s church in the sky

JUAN MARTINEZ

September 30, 2024

Traveling Abuna Yemata Guh, Ethiopia’s church in the sky

Abuna Yemata Guh is not like any other church in the world. This rock-hewn sanctuary stands 250 meters above ground and in order to reach it, you are required to climb up and face death.

“There is no other place in the world where you can get closer to God”, these are the words most Ethiopians use when they talk about Abuna Yemata Guh, a rock-hewn church located in Northern Ethiopia. Unlike any of the other 34 rock-hewn churches in the country, Abuna Yemata Guh is a little bit different. It is situated within a cliff face 250 meters above the ground and halfway up a sheer rock pinnacle. Furthermore, in order to get there, pilgrims have to climb up the steep rock – all without so much as a rope.

Entrance to Abuna Yemata Guh in Ethiopia
Entrance to Abuna Yemata Guh in Ethiopia

Religious Significance of Abuna Yemata Guh and Ethiopia’s Orthodox Christian Heritage

As one of the world’s first advocates of Christianity, religion plays a big role in Ethiopians life. Most of the population of the country considers themselves religious in some form and with almost 50% of Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, exploring some of the Orthodox churches in Ethiopia is big part of learning about Ethiopian culture and heritage.

Religious art inside the Abuna Yemata Guh church
Religious art inside the Abuna Yemata Guh church

I’ve been to Ethiopia a couple of times in the past years and each time I go there, I feel the necessity of learning more about Ethiopia’s sentiment for religion. I have visited several churches in the country, including the monolithic church in Lalibela, which is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List, and even participated in some of their sublime ceremonies.

Even though Ethiopia is not known for being a destination for religious pilgrimage, I felt here a deeper connection to God than in other religious places around the world like Vatican City or the Western Wall.

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An Orthodox priest guarding the entrance of a church
An Orthodox priest guarding the entrance of a church

The Spiritual Journey: Climbing to Abuna Yemata Guh’s Church in the Sky

Out of all the churches, temples and sanctuaries from all different religions in dozens of different countries I visited in the past decade, there is nothing like Abuna Yemata Guh.

According to a local legend, nine monks from Byzantium arrived in northern Ethiopia back in the 5th century. After they settled in the region and indoctrinated the population into Orthodox Christianity, they developed the skills of excavating monolithic churches. One of these monks, Abuna Yemata, started the task of constructing a church so high, that it will get closer to God. He excavated what today is Abuna Yemata Guh and despite the difficult task of free climbing 250m high in order to get there, he worshiped here each Sunday and held his service.

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The path to Abuna Yemata Guh is not easy for those afraid of heights
The path to Abuna Yemata Guh is not easy for those afraid of heights

Historical Background of Abuna Yemata Guh

Today, 6th century paintings on the walls and the basic structure of the church are in excellent conditions. Furthermore, a local Orthodox priest is continuing the tradition of holding ceremonies here and has been climbing Abuna Yemata Guh every day for the past 50 years.

Locals from all over Ethiopia come here to pray, Abuna Yemata Guh is very popular for baptisms and special pilgrimages. Devotes come here to experience a ceremony that can only start after facing death.

Safety Tips for Visiting Abuna Yemata Guh

According to the Washington Post, no person has ever died while trying to accomplish this very difficult task. “The route is blessed – God is watching for us” is what the people living around this sacred location said.

Any person can visit Abuna Yemata Guh. The church is open to the public for anyone ready to take that leap of faith and climb all the way up. However, climbing upwards is not easy under the heavy Ethiopian sun and without proper equipment.

At some sections, locals even recommend to leave the shoes down in order to get more grip and feel more comfortable with the rock.  

Locals are making this visit a little bit more accessible for foreigners in the past years, as unofficial guides help travelers for 20-30 USD to go all the way up. They even carry ropes for the difficult parts of the route.

Climbing Abuna Yemata Guh is not about the views or the adrenaline itself. It is about a better understanding Ethiopians love for God and experiencing one of the most incredible pilgrimages on Earth.

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Locals find shelter and warm in churches excavated from a rock
Locals find shelter and warm in churches excavated from a rock

Abuna Yemata Guh visitor guide

Visiting Abuna Yemata Guh is an unforgettable experience, combining adventure, spirituality, and breathtaking views. This ancient rock-hewn church, perched high up on a cliff face in the Gheralta Mountains, offers visitors more than just a glimpse into Ethiopia’s religious history—it presents a thrilling and unique journey to reach it. The climb to Abuna Yemata Guh is as much a part of the experience as the destination itself.

The hike starts at the base of the mountains, where you’ll trek through a dry, rocky landscape, eventually making your way up towards the cliff. The first part of the journey is relatively easy, but as you ascend, the terrain becomes steeper, and the hike transforms into more of a climb. There are sections where you need to scale vertical rock faces, aided only by handholds and small foot grips carved into the stone centuries ago. While it’s not for the faint-hearted, the physical challenge adds to the spiritual and historical significance of the site.

Once you’ve reached the top, you’re rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the surrounding Gheralta Mountains and valleys. The church itself, carved into the cliff face, is a small, simple structure, but it’s decorated with beautiful, centuries-old frescoes and religious art. The atmosphere is peaceful and humbling, and for many, reaching this sacred site is a deeply spiritual moment.

The climb to Abuna Yemata Guh is not just about physical endurance—it’s about the journey, the rich history, and the connection to Ethiopia’s ancient Christian traditions.

View from the Abuna Yemata Guh church
View from the Abuna Yemata Guh church

FAQs about Abuna Yemata Guh

How difficult is the climb to Abuna Yemata Guh? The climb to Abuna Yemata Guh is considered challenging and requires a good level of physical fitness. The hike begins moderately but becomes increasingly steep, and the final section involves climbing vertical rock faces with limited safety equipment. While local guides are there to assist, it’s not recommended for those with a fear of heights or limited mobility.

When is the best time to visit? The best time to visit Abuna Yemata Guh is during the dry season, from October to March. During this time, the weather is more predictable, and the dry conditions make the climb safer and more manageable. Avoid the rainy season (June to September), as the rocks can become slippery and dangerous.

Do I need a guide to visit Abuna Yemata Guh? Yes, hiring a local guide is highly recommended. Not only do they help with navigating the climb safely, but they also provide valuable insights into the history and significance of the church. Many guides are familiar with the safest climbing techniques and can offer support at tricky points during the ascent.

What should I wear for the climb? Wear comfortable, lightweight clothing and sturdy hiking shoes with good grip. Since parts of the climb involve scrambling up rocks, it’s essential to wear shoes that provide traction. A hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are also recommended, as there is little shade during the climb.

Is there an entrance fee? Yes, there is typically a small entrance fee to visit Abuna Yemata Guh, which goes towards the preservation of the church and supporting the local community. Additionally, it’s customary to tip your guide after the climb.

Can children or elderly people climb Abuna Yemata Guh? The climb to Abuna Yemata Guh is not suitable for young children or elderly visitors with mobility issues due to the steep and risky sections. It’s essential to be in good physical condition and comfortable with heights before attempting the hike.

Are there any safety measures in place? While there are no official safety harnesses or ropes for the climb, local guides are skilled at helping visitors navigate the difficult sections. For those uncomfortable with the climb, it’s essential to communicate with the guide and take the ascent slowly.

Want to see more about Abuna Yemata Guh?

Check out one of my favorite videos about this magical place:

The most hardcore baptism you’ll ever see

This is the most hardcore baptism you’ll ever see – a mum carrying her baby to a church up a near-vertical cliff face. 😱(Via BBC Stories)

Gepostet von BBC News am Mittwoch, 7. März 2018

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