A road trip in West Africa can be long, exhausting, tiring, and mentally challenging. Yet, one thing is for sure: it is the adventure of a lifetime.
Embarking on a road trip through West Africa is not just a journey across geographical boundaries; it’s a plunge into the heart of a complex, relatively unexplored, and tumultuous region. This trip is less about meticulous planning or the typical comforts of modern travel and more about embracing the unpredictability and raw beauty of the continent.
Inspired by the books of Polish journalist Ryszard Kapuściński, who spent decades in Africa seeking discomfort, I have been planning this trip for a while, and I couldn’t be more excited to find five other friends to share this experience with. I wanted to experience a journey that reveals the diversity of this part of Africa. I wanted to see landscapes, cultures, and experiences, stretching from the arid edges of the Sahara to the lush rainforests by the Atlantic coast.
As Kapuściński might say, “this is not a journey for the faint of heart, but for those seeking the pulse of Africa, it’s an invitation to witness life in its most authentic form.“
Every Good Journey Begins in Dakar
Finding five people who have the time, energy, budget, and desire for such an adventure is not an easy task. This is a trip everyone wants to join, but nobody is willing to give a final yes.
After a few months of searching and one or two last-minute dropouts, our group consisted of six intrepid travelers, each experienced in complex trips and each bringing their unique perspectives and strengths to the journey. One thing was sure: we were all united by a shared love for adventure and exploration.
The plan was to traverse the central part of West Africa from Senegal to Ivory Coast, covering roughly 3,000 kilometers and crossing multiple international borders. Our route took us through Senegal, Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Sierra Leone, Liberia, and finally, Ivory Coast.
We relied on two rugged Toyota Land Cruisers from the 1990s, courtesy of our reliable friend Marlon Read from Thiosane Travels. Marlon, a Dutch driver and tour guide based in Burkina Faso, has been navigating the challenging terrains of West Africa for over 25 years. His expertise and experience were invaluable, as the journey required more than just mechanical reliability; it demanded local knowledge, linguistic skills, and the ability to navigate bureaucratic challenges. Along with Marlon, his friend Moussa joined us as a second driver, ensuring we could maintain a steady pace despite the often grueling conditions.
Our adventure started in Dakar, Senegal, a city teeming with vibrant culture and history. We all met there on different days, and we all had the chance to explore this vibrant city at our own pace before the raw adventure began.
But this is not an article about the best tips for West Africa or just another travel guide. This is a story about friendship, adventure, and embracing one of the most logistically difficult regions to travel.
But every trip should start with good food, and Dakar did not disappoint. The Senegalese capital offered a culinary delight with its famous fish restaurants. The freshness of the seafood, caught daily from the Atlantic, was unparalleled. We indulged in dishes like thieboudienne, Senegal’s national dish made with fish, rice, and tomato sauce, and felt the warmth of Senegalese hospitality in every bite.
While in Africa, I was able to find the best prices available for any hotel at Booking.com and Agoda. These are the two largest platforms to compare hotel prices.
Driving Across Senegambia
The drive from Dakar to The Gambia was our first taste of the varying road conditions we would face. Initially smooth and well-maintained, the roads quickly gave way to rougher terrain as we approached the border. Crossing into The Gambia, we navigated narrow, pothole-ridden roads that slowed our progress significantly. The landscape, however, was lush and green, with the Gambia River winding its way through the countryside, a lifeline for the communities along its banks.
In The Gambia, we visited the Gambia River National Park, a protected area that provided a much-needed respite from the road. We took a boat ride on the river, spotting hippos lazily basking in the water. The tranquility of the park, with its dense mangroves and diverse birdlife, was a welcome break. The capital, Banjul, offered a different experience. It was a city with a colonial past and a present filled with bustling markets and beautiful beaches. Despite feeling out of place among the older British tourists, we enjoyed the local cuisine and the relaxed pace of life.
Guinea-Bissau: A Hidden Gem
Guinea-Bissau was a pleasant surprise. The capital, Bissau, charmed us with its blend of Portuguese colonial architecture and vibrant local culture. We wandered through the narrow streets, discovering quaint cafés serving excellent Portuguese food, a culinary remnant of the country’s colonial past.
The city’s calm and laid-back atmosphere was a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Banjul. However, the roads in Guinea-Bissau presented their own set of challenges. As we moved away from the capital, the roads deteriorated rapidly, and we found ourselves navigating through rough, unpaved paths. The drive to Bafata, a historic town known for its Portuguese colonial buildings, was particularly challenging. Despite the rough roads, the journey was worth it, as we were rewarded with stunning views and a glimpse into the country’s rich history and culture.
Into the Wilderness: Guinea’s Untamed Beauty
Our journey through Guinea was marked by its breathtaking natural landscapes. We deliberately skipped the capital, Conakry, to explore more remote and untouched areas. The drive to Labe, a town in the Fouta Djallon highlands, was long and arduous. The roads were often little more than dirt tracks, winding through dense forests and over rocky hills.
In Guinea, we encountered some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the region, notably the magnificent Kambadaga Falls. Standing at the base of the falls, feeling the spray of the water and hearing the roar of the cascade, was a moment of awe and wonder.
Read more: How to get from Guinea to Sierra Leone by boat
This part of the journey also tested our patience and our willingness to deal with stress. This was not a holiday; it was a true adventure where the road trip itself was the main protagonist.
The physical demands of the journey, combined with the mental strain of long hours on the road, began to take their toll. The six to seven-hour drives each day, often on rough and unpredictable roads, were exhausting. There were moments of tension and conflict within our group, exacerbated by the discomfort of our cramped vehicles.
One day, the strain became too much for me, and I chose to stay silent, needing a break from the constant interaction. Yet, despite these challenges, we were united by a shared sense of adventure and a desire to see the journey through.
Sierra Leone: Nature’s Paradise
Sierra Leone was a highlight of our trip, with its stunning and untouched natural beauty. The beaches south of Freetown, particularly Bureh Beach, were some of the most beautiful we had ever seen. The golden sands stretched for miles, flanked by palm trees and lapped by the crystal-clear waters of the Atlantic. We spent a few days here, soaking in the sun and enjoying the tranquility. It was also a time to rest and repair our vehicles, which had suffered numerous breakdowns along the way.
But the memories that last longer were not about the places we visited, but the moments we experienced. Playing guitar and singing while hearing the sound of the waves or preparing a small pub quiz in the middle of nowhere.
Sierra Leone also offered a glimpse into the resilience and spirit of its people. We had the opportunity to interact with local communities and see how locals move forward in times of adversity. Yet, amidst the poverty and hardship, there was a palpable sense of hope and community.
Liberia: A challenge we can laugh about today
Our time in Liberia was marked by both challenges and unexpected moments of joy. We had planned to spend only a few days in the country, but issues at the Ivory Coast border extended our stay. The border crossing was a tense experience, with officials delaying our paperwork in an attempt to solicit bribes. These moments were frustrating and disheartening, but they were also a stark reminder of the realities many travelers face in this part of the world.
Despite these challenges, Liberia had its moments of joy. In Monrovia, we spent the night dancing salsa in a bar frequented by the city’s diplomatic community. It was a night of laughter and celebration, a brief escape from the stresses of the journey. Marco, one of our group members, had his own adventure, driving seven hours to Monrovia to meet a girl he had met briefly the night before. It was a spontaneous decision, fueled by the unpredictable nature of travel, and added another layer to our adventure.
The time spent waiting at the Liberia-Ivory Coast border was perhaps the most challenging part of the trip. We found ourselves stuck for days, drinking coffee and trying to pass the time while our paperwork was processed. The boredom and frustration were palpable, but these moments also provided an opportunity for reflection.
We spent our evenings drinking beer and talking, sharing stories and experiences. In those moments, we forgot about the outside world—no social media, no news, just the road trip and the adventure ahead.
Final Stretch: Ivory Coast
Our journey culminated in Ivory Coast, where we finally crossed into Abidjan. The city, with its mix of modern skyscrapers and French colonial architecture, was a stark contrast to the more rural and remote areas we had traveled through. We explored the bustling markets, indulged in local cuisine, and visited the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, one of the largest churches in the world. The grandeur of the basilica, set against the backdrop of the city,was awe-inspiring.
Grand Bassam, a historic town near Abidjan, was our last stop. This place offered a glimpse into the country’s colonial past. The town, with its faded colonial buildings and vibrant art scene, was a fitting end to our journey. We spent our last days exploring the town, soaking in the local culture, and reflecting on the incredible journey we had undertaken.
Read more: Everything you need to know to plan a trip to Burkina Faso
Reflections on the Road
A journey from Senegal to Ivory Coast was an odyssey in every sense. The physical demands of long hours on the road, navigating through sometimes treacherous terrains, were matched by the mental challenges of being in close quarters with the same people for extended periods. There were moments of tension and conflict, times when we each needed space and quiet. Yet, these were the moments that made the trip what it was—a true adventure, testing our limits and bringing us closer together.
We often fantasized about taking a break from the relentless pace, perhaps spending a night in a luxurious resort, indulging in comfort and ease. However, the allure of the road, the desire to push through discomfort and challenge, kept us going. It was this shared commitment to seeking out the raw, unfiltered experience that defined our journey. We stayed in the most remote places, ate local food, and embraced the unpredictability of the road.
Read more: The most interesting and bizarre experiences in Burkina Faso
The Essence of Adventure
In the end, this road trip was more than just a journey from one place to another. It was an exploration of the soul, a deep dive into the heart of West Africa, and a test of our endurance and resilience. It was about discovering new landscapes, cultures, and people, and learning more about ourselves and each other. The challenges we faced, from mechanical breakdowns to bureaucratic hurdles, were part of the adventure, shaping our experience and leaving us with stories that will last a lifetime.
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As we reflect on this journey, the memories of singing karaoke in Dakar, celebrating my birthday in Freetown, and playing music on a beach in Sierra Leone stand out. These moments, filled with laughter, music, and camaraderie, are the essence of travel—the joy of discovery, the beauty of connection, and the thrill of adventure.
This road trip was not just about reaching a destination but about embracing the journey in all its complexity and beauty. It was a reminder that the most rewarding experiences often come from stepping out of our comfort zones, facing challenges head-on, and opening ourselves to the world in all its diversity and richness.
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