Dominica, with its towering mountains and endless forests, feels like stepping into a lost world where nature reigns supreme.
I didn’t expect to fall in love with Dominica, but the moment the ferry from Saint Lucia pulled into port, I could feel something special about the island. It’s easy to get here, thanks to the L’Express des Iles ferry connecting Martinique, Guadeloupe, and Saint Lucia fo just around $50 USD. In just 1 hour from Saint Lucia, you’re swept across the sparkling Caribbean Sea and into the arms of an island that feels untouched by time.
As we approached, the air shifted. The smell of earth and saltwater mingled together, and the sight of endless green mountains creeping into the clouds was something I hadn’t seen anywhere else in the Caribbean. It wasn’t just another beach destination—this was a true oasis of rivers, rainforests, and adventure.
The Green Heart of the Caribbean
Dominica is different. The lush, green forests that cover more than half the island give it a feeling of life bursting at every corner. There’s a quiet energy in the air, with the constant sound of rushing water from hidden rivers and waterfalls and the hum of the forest creatures around you. The island felt like an oasis, its thick canopy and untouched landscapes unlike anywhere I’d been in this part of the world.
Everywhere I went, I could feel nature breathing, alive. The air was fresher, cleaner, with a mix of damp soil, wildflowers, and tropical plants that seemed to thrive in the island’s constant rain. Here, the weather is unpredictable, but it adds to the charm. One moment, the sun is shining through the dense jungle, and the next, you’re caught in a light, refreshing rain shower that makes the forest glow.
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Meeting John: My Local Connection
One of the most memorable parts of my trip was meeting John, a Couchsurfing host who became a friend and guide during my stay. Born in Dominica, but raised in Atlanta, he had moved to Dominica a few years ago, drawn by the tranquility and simplicity of the Caribbean life. John greeted me with a warm smile and stories about why he chose to leave his fast-paced life in the USA for the quiet, slower rhythm of the island.
With John, I saw the island through the eyes of someone who truly loves it. He took me to places I would have never found on my own—local markets where the air was thick with the smell of fresh produce and spices, secluded swimming holes where we were the only two people for miles, and local bars where the sounds of laughter and live music filled the night air. The pace of life in Dominica is different—slower, more relaxed—and that’s exactly what makes it so special.
The Challenge of Getting Around
Dominica isn’t an island you can easily explore without your own transportation. Aside from the cruise ship crowds who flood the town for a few hours, the island is blissfully quiet, and public transportation is limited. Without a car, you’d be left waiting for infrequent buses or haggling with taxi drivers. So, I rented a car for $50 USD a day, and it gave me the freedom to experience the island on my own terms.
Driving in Dominica is an adventure in itself. The roads are narrow and winding, often hugging the side of steep cliffs with sharp turns and barely any guardrails. But the views—oh, the views—were worth every hair-raising bend. Each twist in the road revealed something new: a valley so green it looked like a painting, a hidden waterfall, or a beach covered in black volcanic sand.
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Let the Island Guide You
What I loved most about Dominica was how unplanned everything felt. With no strict itinerary, we let curiosity guide us. One morning, we stumbled upon Emerald Pool, a crystal-clear waterfall in the middle of the rainforest. It wasn’t necessarily on my must-see list, but when I saw the sign on the road, something made me pull over. The path to the pool was shaded by enormous trees, their leaves shimmering from the rain. When we arrived, the only sound was the gentle crash of water hitting the rocks and the occasional chirping of birds. It was one of those moments where the world felt perfectly still.
Later that day, we found ourselves driving toward Trafalgar Falls, another waterfall tucked into the forest. Unlike Emerald Pool, Trafalgar was a bit more popular, with a few other visitors, but it didn’t take away from the sheer power of the twin waterfalls. Standing there, I could feel the cool mist against my skin, carried by the breeze. The forest surrounding us was alive, its damp earth fragrant and rich, while the distant sound of the falls echoed through the trees.
But it wasn’t just the big attractions that left a mark on me. Sometimes, it was the simple joy of pulling over at a random beach or taking a small trail into the woods just because it looked interesting on Google Maps. One of my favorite memories was a spontaneous stop at a tiny beach on the east coast. We parked the car, walked down a narrow path, and found ourselves on a deserted white-sand beach with not another soul in sight. The waves lapped gently at the shore, and I felt as if we had discovered a hidden paradise.
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A Less-Touristy Island
Dominica was the least touristy of all the Caribbean islands I visited, and that’s part of what made it so magical. There were no crowds, no mega-resorts, just nature at its finest. Even in the heart of the island’s small capital, Roseau, there was a feeling of authenticity that’s hard to find in other Caribbean destinations. The town was alive with the sounds of vendors calling out their goods, the scent of freshly fried fish wafting through the air, and the distant buzz of music from local bars.
And then, as quickly as the cruise ship passengers appeared, they were gone. By the late afternoon, the island felt like it belonged to the locals again, and the calm returned. I didn’t stay in Roseau, but on a nearby town. Being there was different – I was a local for a few days, feeling like I had the town to myself. The stars would start to dot the sky, and the soft sounds of the island at night—frogs croaking, leaves rustling in the breeze—made it feel like I was in on a well-kept secret.
John also introduced me to everyone we encountered. Stories of multiple people from different backgrounds with one thing in common. Everyone was happy, that I decided to explore Dominica independently and not on a cruise ship.
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The Journey Is the Destination
Driving in Dominica isn’t just a way to get from place to place—it’s part of the adventure. The island’s roads take you through dense forests, over mountains, and along the coast, offering breathtaking views at every turn. We didn’t stick to a strict route, instead opting to stop wherever looked interesting. Sometimes that meant pulling over at a roadside fruit stand where the smell of ripe mangoes filled the air, or exploring an unmarked trail that led us to a hidden stream.
There were moments when the road seemed to disappear into the jungle, only to reappear around the next bend. It was all part of the experience. And unlike other islands where you might feel rushed to check off a list of tourist hotspots, Dominica invites you to slow down, take your time, and enjoy the journey.
