Crossing from Pakistan into Afghanistan through Peshawar’s Torkham border is possible, but it requires careful visa planning, local knowledge, and a good dose of patience.
Planning an overland trip between Pakistan and Afghanistan isn’t impossible, dangerous or risky (at least in my opinion) but it is detail-heavy, fast-changing, and unforgiving if you get the paperwork wrong. I decided to wrte a guide with some information on securing an Afghan tourist visa (I did mine in Islamabad) and crossing the Torkham border near Peshawar.
What you need to know before going to Afghanistan
I found Afghanistan a relatively safe country to travel around (I went there in October 2023) However, traveling to Afghanistan is subject to fluid rules and real security risks. Border hours can change without notice; requirements can tighten overnight; escorts may be mandated on one side and not the other.
Tourism has restarted and visas are available in several countries, yet most Western governments still advise against all travel due to the risk of detention, terrorism, and arbitrary law enforcement. While I think these reports are a bit exagerated and traveling felt quite safe, you need to understand that in case of some issue while traveling in the country, there is almost no chance that your home country will intervene. Afghanistan has no US, German or UK embassies and the closest support you will get if you get into trouble is your guide.
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Getting a Tourist Visa for Afghanistan
Do You Need a Visa?
Yes. All foreign nationals require a visa to enter Afghanistan. There is no visa on arrival for tourists (not even diplomats). Plan on getting a sticker visa in your passport before you cross or fly. Also keep in mind that if you need an ESTA to visit the USA, once you get an Afghanistan visa, you will be required to get a physical visa to visit this country.
Where Can You Get a visa to Afghanistan?
Since 2021, the map of functional Afghan missions has shifted. Today, visas are being issued by consulates and embassies in several locations. The most popular locations for travelers are Dubai (UAE), Islamabad and Peshawar (Pakistan), and Tehran (Iran). I got mine in Islamabad and while the post there is open for visa applications, always verify at online forums like “Every Passport Stamp” before you go.
These are the most common places to get the visa
- Dubai has become one of the most reliable and traveler-friendly places to apply; many travelers report same-day issuance if your documents are in order.
- Islamabad/Peshawar: The Embassy/Consulate issues visas to applicants legally present in Pakistan. Expect queues. I got mine in 1 day, but I met people receiving it at the same day.
- Tehran: Several travelers report fast processing (often two days; same-day available with a fee), no invitation letter required.
What Visa Type and Validity Should You Expect?
Standard tourist visas are typically single-entry, valid for 90 days from the date of issue, allowing up to 30 days of stay. Some posts may issue 60 or 90 days’ stay, but assume 30 days unless you confirm otherwise. Extensions inside Afghanistan are not guaranteed and I don’t know how to get them.
Typical Requirements
While each post can tweak the list, expect to need:
- Passport valid for at least 6 months, with 2+ blank visa pages.
- Completed visa application form.
- Two passport photos.
- Travel itinerary (hotel names, tentative dates, contact numbers) – DO NOT PROVIDE FAKE INFORMATION
- Visa fee (cash only in local currency or USD).
- Letter of invitation (LOI) if required — not always needed for tourists, but some posts may ask. I was not ask for it.
- Costs: Fees change regularly and differ by nationality and post. Always bring extra cash.
Afghan passports and visas issued by Taliban-run missions are what will be checked at the border and inside the country, regardless of whether your home government recognizes them. Western governments warn of detention risks and advise against travel; make your decision with care.
I traveled to Afghanistan with 2 friends and we got our visas in Islamabad. We arrived at the embassy early in the morning and the process was very smooth. Even though there was a lot of people, they were mostly from Afghanistan and we were able to skip the lines and enter to the building.
We also had a small interview with the ambassador asking what are our plans in Afghanistan and why we wanted to visit. He also asked me why I have been in the United States so often (I just said I have family there and there are many things to see). The ambassador also called in front of us our guide/contact in Afghanistan and confirmed the information we provided.
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Entering by Land via Peshawar: The Torkham Crossing
Torkham is the most used and (relatively) straightforward land gateway between Pakistan and Afghanistan. It sits at the top of the Khyber Pass, roughly 55 km from Peshawar. While foreigners do cross both ways, conditions fluctuate: the crossing can close or restrict traffic without notice. My best advice for crossing this border is to expect the unexpected.
Can You Actually Cross Here as a Foreigner?
Yes — when it’s open and when your paperwork is correct. Inform yourself if the border is open at the Every Passport Stamp facebook group or the WhatsApp Group for Afghanistan Travelers (access through checking the comments at the EPS FB Group)
Your Paperwork Checklist
- Passport with Afghan tourist visa (if heading into Afghanistan) or with a valid Pakistani visa (if returning to Pakistan).
- Correct port of entry on your Pakistan visa: not all e-visa categories list Torkham. A sticker visa or e-visa explicitly naming Torkham is safest.
- Printouts of hotel bookings/host contacts and onward plans. (just in case)
- Cash for taxis, photocopies, and small expenses.
Peshawar to Torkham: How to Get There
- Private car with a reputable driver is the norm. Travel time is 2–3+ hours depending on checkpoints and traffic.
- At times, authorities have required a police escort for foreign travelers between Peshawar and the border. This rule changes frequently. A few days before we crossed, a German guy mentioned he got detained and ordered to get a police escort. We didn’t need that.
- We arrranged our taxi in Peshawar through someone from Couchsurfing. Price was very inexpensive and we departed quite early in the morning.
KEEP IN MIND: Pakistan has no double entry eVisa. If you visit Afghanistan only for 2-3 days, plan ahead how you will get your eVisa on time.
What to Expect at the Pakistan → Afghanistan Border
- Pakistani exit formalities: Immigration stamp out, multiple checkpoints before reaching the gate. They also checked how much cash we are carrying and drones are not allowed. Phones were not checked even though I heard multiple stories telling that.
- No-man’s land: Depending on the day, you may walk across or take a shuttle. This crossing is chaotic and can be quite shocking. Pakistani officers hit with sticks locals and Afghans trying to do business here and I even saw a woman getting stabbed by a police officer because she didn’t want to move away.
- Afghan entry formalities: Present passport and visa, answer simple questions about purpose, stay, and contacts. Bag scans and registration are common. The officers here were very friendly. We even took photos together and they asked a few questions about how my friends and I met and what are we doing in the country.
- Once you get your passport stamped, you can also exchange money, or buy a local sim card. I got a physical SIM card, but I also had an eSIM from Airalo. Depending on the location, one was better than the other, but in general, the internet in Afghanistan is bad!
- onward transport: From the Afghan side, you can hire a car toward Jalalabad or Kabul. In my case, I got picked by the guide. We negotiated a 10 day tour with a guide just to avoid wasting time getting permits individually and planning details.
- Travel time: Peshawar to the border: 2 hours. Border controls: 2 hours. Border to Kabul is usually 4-5 hours. Total time from Peshawar to Kabul: 7-10 hours
Afghanistan → Pakistan (Returning via Torkham)
Pakistan will check your valid visa, sometimes require proof of polio vaccination, and may ask detailed questions about your trip. The crossing can be crowded and chaotic; early morning arrival helps.
Closures and Surprise Changes
The border sometimes closes due to political tensions or technical problems. Always check conditions with your hotel, driver, or a local operator right before you go.
Health, Safety, and Conduct at the Border
- Dress conservatively on both sides (long sleeves, trousers; headscarf for women).
- Do not photograph soldiers, police, or border facilities.
- Phones: Expect patchy service near the border; carry printouts of key info.
- Cash only: ATMs are unreliable.
- Vaccines: Pakistan may enforce proof of polio vaccination for travelers coming from Afghanistan. They might even give you a liquid vaccine at the border.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safer to fly than to cross by land?
Flying via Dubai or Istanbul into Kabul avoids the uncertainties of the Khyber Pass, but overland is still possible.
Do I need a police escort from Peshawar to the border?
Sometimes. The requirement changes frequently. Ask your driver or hotel for the latest.
Can I use a Pakistan e-visa for Torkham?
Only if the e-visa explicitly lists land entry at Torkham. Otherwise, you risk refusal.
How long is the road from Peshawar to Kabul?
Expect 7–13 hours total, depending on traffic and road conditions.
Is tourism really happening?
Yes. Thousands of travelers have visited in recent years, though risks remain.
Step-by-Step: A Practical Crossing Day (Pakistan → Afghanistan)
- Night before in Peshawar
- Confirm border hours.
- Prepare copies of passport and visa.
- Dress conservatively, pack water and snacks.
- Early departure
- Leave at dawn. You may encounter a police checkpoint and escort.
- Pakistani exit
- Immigration stamp out, possible questions about Afghan plans.
- Between gates
- Walk or take a shuttle; no photos.
- Afghan entry
- Immigration and bag checks; provide your first-night hotel contact.
