Planning a trip to Turkmenistan is adventurous, but it requires careful preparation and a licensed tour operator for navigating the country’s unique travel restrictions.

Turkmenistan was my country 135 and after traveling so many parts of the world and writing for Lonely Planet about complicated travel routes, I can confidently say that Turkmenistan remains one of the most unique and enigmatic destinations I have visited.

Planning a trip here requires patience, research, and—most importantly—a reliable tour operator. Yes! It is true that independent travel is prohibited and unfortunately you can’t get around it. In this guide, I’ll break down everything you need to know before traveling to Turkmenistan, from securing a visa to choosing the best tour operator, managing money, and navigating limited internet access.

Let’s dive into the essentials so you can make your adventure as smooth and enjoyable as possible.

Getting into Turkmenistan

Flights and borders

Most visitors to Turkmenistan will arrive at Ashgabat International Airport. This is the country’s primary international gateway, and several airlines fly here, including Turkish Airlines, FlyDubai, and S7 Airlines. I used Turkish Airlines miles to get a significant discount on my flight, which helped offset the overall cost of my trip. Usually a round trip to Turkmenistan goes around 700 EUR, which is a very big expense for just a single country.

Traveling Overland to Turkmenistan

For those who want to keep the budget tight or simply prefer overland travel, the most common route into Turkmenistan is through Uzbekistan. This was an option I considered in case I couldn’t book flights with miles. However, keep in mind that reaching the border from Uzbekistan is also not that easy, and you will sacrifice a lot of comfort if you take this route.

Many multi-country tours include Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan on their itineraries, often starting in Tashkent and crossing the Farap Border into Turkmenistan. On a tour it makes complete sense, as this makes for a seamless experience, especially if you’re looking to combine multiple Central Asian countries into one trip.

If you’re traveling independently in Uzbekistan, you can arrange for your Turkmen operator (like Ayan Travel) to pick you up at the northern border and help with the bureaucratic paperwork needed to enter Turkmenistan.

Read more: How many passport pages do you need to get a visa for Turkmenistan

Visas for Turkmenistan: What You Need to Know

Obtaining a visa for Turkmenistan is a multi-step process that hinges on having a Letter of Invitation (LOI), which must be issued by a licensed tour operator (there is no other way around). You cannot travel to Turkmenistan without an LOI, and the visa itself is tied directly to the tour itinerary provided by your operator.

While in some countries, an LOI is more a document you can easily buy, in Turkmenistan tour operators are very concerned of issuing these and would not do it for a person just offering money.

Besides than this, getting the LOI and the visa on arrival letter is quite easy. Everything is done by the operator and you can send all your information via WhatsApp. Very easy.

INSIDER TIP: a worker from Ayan Travel told me that they issue an LOI without a tour only when the traveler is planning to visit Turkmenistan with a Turkmen and they check multiple times that this person is legit.

Read more: Why Travel to Turkmenistan: Central Asia’s Most Mysterious Destination

Steps for Securing a Visa:

1. Contact a tour operator: To get started, reach out to an official tour operator, such as Ayan Travel (local operator), Lupine Travel, or Young Pioneer Tours. They will be your point of contact for arranging your trip and obtaining the necessary LOI.
2. Apply for your LOI: The operator will apply for the LOI on your behalf. This process takes between 2-3 weeks. Do not book flights without the visa. Unfortunately, you can’t also apply more than 3 months in advance. This makes the wait even more annoying.
3. Visa application: Once your LOI is approved, you can apply for a visa at the nearest Turkmen embassy or at the airport upon arrival in Ashgabat. I did it at the Ashgabat airport and it was by far the easiest option.

Be aware that your visa is directly linked to your tour. You must follow the itinerary provided by your operator, and independent travel is not allowed in the country. The strict requirements make working with a well-established operator essential for navigating bureaucratic obstacles and ensuring your visa is approved.

Currently, if you travel to Turkmenistan you are forced to take a very unnecessary COVID Test for 20 USD. Also, you can’t use the black market rate for your visa process. I paid for the whole visa and test process 101 USD and I had to pay in cash. Bring the exact amount to avoid losing money.

INSIDER TIP: When you book a private tour with Ayan Travel, their team will welcome you at the visa counter and support you with the process. This saved me around 1 hour as my guide did everything for me ahead and I just had to pay and go to the different countries to get my visa stamped, get the COVID Test, and do immigration.

Read more: The best 5-day itinerary in Turkmenistan

Tour Operators in Turkmenistan: How to Choose the Right One

Choosing the right tour operator for your trip is the most critical step in planning your Turkmenistan adventure. When selecting an operator, you can opt for one of the big companies or look for a local operator that can tailor the tour the way you want. I went for Ayan Travel. They are the largest local operator. However, while researching information, I also looked on tours from Lupine Travel, G Adventures and smaller local guides.

Ayan Travel:

As the largest and most established tour operator in Turkmenistan, Ayan Travel offers both group tours and private tours. While Ayan is slightly more expensive than some of the smaller operators, they provide the best pricing for individual private tours, and their local knowledge is second to none. I traveled with Ayan and found their services to be exceptional, especially in terms of arranging logistics, visa support, and offering a well-curated itinerary.

Lupine Travel:

Lupine Travel is a UK-based operator that specializes in budget-friendly group tours. They’re a solid option for those who want to travel in a group setting and don’t mind adhering to a more rigid itinerary. Lupine tours are often a good choice for travelers looking to explore several Central Asian countries, including Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, in one go. Their 5-Stan tour that includes Turkmenistan goes for 2900 EUR and 15 days. To be honest, it is way cheaper to do that route indepedently and take a local operator for a tour to Turkmenistan.

Young Pioneer Tours:

Known for budget tours to unusual destinations, Young Pioneer Tours is another option for travelers looking to experience Turkmenistan without breaking the bank. Like Lupine, they focus on group tours and offer a more adventurous and budget-conscious option. However, this means less flexibility in terms of personalizing your experience.

Read more: How to plan a road trip to Oman

Group Tours vs. Private Tours: What’s the Difference?

When deciding whether to book a group or private tour, there are several factors to consider. The choice you make will greatly impact your experience in Turkmenistan, as both types of tours offer distinct advantages and disadvantages.

Group Tours:

• Pros: Group tours are more affordable, making them a great option for budget-conscious travelers. You’ll have the opportunity to meet other travelers and share the experience with a group, which can add a social element to the trip. Companies like Lupine Travel and Young Pioneer Tours offer pre-designed group itineraries that cover the major sights and experiences in Turkmenistan.
• Cons: Group tours are often rigid and follow a set itinerary, meaning you won’t have much control over how long you spend at each location or what you focus on during your visit. There’s also less flexibility in adding personal interests or extra days to your tour, and you’ll need to keep pace with the group schedule.

Private Tours:

• Pros: Private tours offer complete flexibility and control over your itinerary. You can tailor the trip to your personal interests, adjust the pace to suit your needs, and enjoy a more intimate travel experience. While private tours are more expensive, they allow you to experience the country on your own terms. I booked a private tour with Ayan Travel, and the flexibility was worth the higher price. I had the opportunity to explore areas at my own pace and focus on specific interests.
• Cons: The primary drawback is the cost. Private tours are significantly more expensive than group tours, often ranging from 2,000 EUR to 4,500 EUR depending on the itinerary and duration. However, for travelers who value customization and privacy, the extra expense can be well worth it.

Money in Turkmenistan: Cash is King

Turkmenistan’s monetary system is based on cash transactions, and credit cards are largely unreliable. The official exchange rate is 3.50 manat per USD and 3.80 manat per EUR, but the black market rate offers much more favorable rates for travelers (around 28 manat per USD and 30.5 manat per EUR). I exchanged money with my tour operator to get the best rate, which is a common practice.

Currency Official Rate at the Black Market

Here are some important tips for handling money in Turkmenistan:

• Always carry cash in either USD or EUR and exchange it with your tour operator to get the better black market rate.
• Avoid using credit cards, as they are unreliable and transactions are processed at the much less favorable official rate.
• Bring more cash than you think you’ll need, as finding exchange points or ATMs that accept foreign cards can be challenging.

NOTE: No, there is not an official black market where you go to exchange money. The easiest way to explain this is that there are two currency exchanges circulating. One that works for those who use the official banking system and one for the regular people that uses cash. 

To be honest, I found the black market only works against foreigners, as the official government entities still use the black market price (unless you are a foreigner).

Read more: How do Black markets work and what is a paralel market?

Connectivity and Internet in Turkmenistan

Staying connected in Turkmenistan is a challenge due to the country’s highly restricted and expensive internet access. No eSIM offers coverage in Turkmenistan, so purchasing a local SIM card is your best option. I used a TMCELL SIM card that cost me 35 EUR, plus an additional 20 EUR for 2GB of internet.

The internet is expensive for foreigners, and data plans are limited. Public Wi-Fi, even in luxury hotels, is unreliable and slow, so plan on using mobile data for basic needs like checking emails or messaging. If you need access to services like WhatsApp, a local VPN will be required to bypass government restrictions.

Read more: Which Are the Weirdest Buildings and Monuments in Ashgabat?

Getting Around Ashgabat

Ashgabat is one of the few places in Turkmenistan where you’ll have some freedom to explore independently, though you’ll still want to stay within certain central areas for ease of navigation and safety.

Walkable Areas:

• Independence Park and the surrounding monuments are great for leisurely walks. These areas are well-maintained and easy to navigate on foot.
• Ashgabat’s cafes and shopping malls are also central and easily accessible. I spent time in some of the city’s newer cafes, which offered a chance to experience local life away from the usual tourist spots.

Non-Walkable Areas:

• The outer suburbs of Ashgabat are less accessible and harder to navigate without a guide or driver. Public transport is minimal, and most people rely on taxis or private vehicles arranged by tour operators.

For most travelers, walking around central Ashgabat will provide plenty of opportunity to experience the city’s unique, marble-covered architecture and modern urban landscape. However, having a guide or driver available for less accessible areas is advisable.

I found traveling in Turkmenistan very safe. From a tourist perspective, there are no concerns if you stick to the regulations of the country. Unfortunately you can’t say the same for the people living in Turkmenistan itself, but this article is about the experience from a traveler and world politics.

Read more: How to be safe when traveling to dangerous countries

Tips for Finding the Right Tour Operator

When looking for the right tour operator, keep these tips in mind:

1. Check Reviews: Look for reviews on platforms like TripAdvisor and ask for recommendations in Facebook groups like Backpacking Central Asia or Every Passport Stamp. These groups often provide first-hand accounts of recent trips and experiences with local guides.
2. Compare Itineraries: Different operators offer varying levels of service. Some focus more on adventure, while others provide a more luxurious experience. Compare itineraries to find one that matches your preferences.
3. Verify Services Included: Make sure to confirm what’s included in your tour price. Some operators include meals, entrance fees, and visa support, while others charge extra for these services.

Planning a trip to Turkmenistan is an adventure in itself, requiring careful planning and the assistance of a trusted tour operator. Whether you opt for the camaraderie of a group tour or the flexibility of a private tour, you will have a good time.

I traveled Turkmenistan and explored as much as I wanted and confirmed or denied all the stereotypes you see from people on social media. More on that later. For now, with the right planning, you can explore this enigmatic country and discover its fascinating, hidden wonders.