I did a 5-day tour in Turkmenistan and here I want to tell you everything you need to know before you travel to this bizarre country in Central Asia

Turkmenistan is one of the most enigmatic countries in Central Asia. It offers an experience unlike any other. With its blend of ancient history, bizarre landscapes, and even weirder stories, this destination feels like stepping into a different world.

I had the opportunity to visit this captivating country on a five-day tour, organized by Ayan Travel, and was blown away by the country itself. For travelers craving an off-the-beaten-path adventure with a unique cultural experience, Turkmenistan is the place to be.

Tours around Turkmenistan do almost the same, so this is not a guide for those who want to travel independent – as you simply can’t. This is more a guide for you to understand what comes on a tour to Turkmenistan and what are you expected to do and see.

From the odd capital of Ashgabat to the bucket list spot, the Darvaza Gas Crater, Turkmenistan has something to offer that no other country offers.

Understanding a Tour in Turkmenistan

Due to Turkmenistan’s strict travel policies, tourists must book their trips through an accredited tour operator. Independent travel is not allowed, which makes the role of tour agencies the only way for exploring the country. Among the large selection of group tours, private tours, big famous agencies, private guides and local agencies, I decided to travel on a private tour with Ayan Travel. They are the largest local operator in Turkmenistan. I went with them because I wanted to support an agency in which 100% of the money goes to the country, but also wanted an operator with experience. They helped me organize everything from my flights to accommodations. They also arranged the mandatory letter of invitation needed for the visa – something super easy to do.

Read more: Why travel to Turkmenistan?

Things you need to know before you travel to Turkmenistan:

• The whole visa process can be done through an agency.
• Local tours have to be paid in cash.
• Currently there is no eSIM working in Turkmenistan and local SIMs are expensive.
• Carry only cash (never take money out of the bank or pay with credit card)
• Most VPNs won’t work in Turkmenistan. Local agencies can give you access to IG and WhatsApp through their own jailbreaks.
• There are no restrictions with cameras or photography besides government buildings.
• There are no restrictions with clothing attires for religious reasons.

Tours in Turkmenistan are way more expensive compared to other Central Asian countries due to government restrictions and the requirement of having a licensed guide at all times. However, the experience of traveling through this off-the-beaten-path destination is worth every penny.

Also, while you can’t move outside Ashgabat without a guide, getting around the city and trying to understand more the local life was something you can easily do independently. Once your daily activities finish, you have time to explore independently and see Ashgabat from your own perspective – something I did every day.

Read more: Everything you need to know before traveling to Turkmenistan

Best agencies to do a Tour in Turkmenistan

• Ayan Travel: I did my tour with this local agency. They offered better prices than foreign agencies and an even better service on land
• Lupine Travel: I wanted to use Lupine Travel first. This is the option for the lowest budget on a fix group.
• Intrepid Travel: One of the biggest agencies for group tours. Best option if you want to go with a well known operator.
• Koryo Tours: Mostly known for their North Korea tours, this agency specializes in off the beaten track destinations.

Now, I will tell you more about my itinerary in Turkmenistan, what made each of these activities unique as well as what can you do once your daily tours are over.

Day 1: Arrival in Ashgabat

Most trips that only focus on Turkmenistan start and end in Ashgabat. If you are doing a multi-country trip, there is a big chance that you start or end at the border with Uzbekistan. I entered and left Turkmenistan through Ashgabat as this was the only country I traveled in this trip.

What to Expect Upon Arrival

My flight landed in Ashgabat International Airport, a very modern airport and something I really did not expect. The immigration process requires multiple lines and long waiting times if you don’t know what to do, but I was greeted by my guide before immigration, who assisted me with the visa-on-arrival process and transferred me to the Grand Turkmen Hotel. This hotel is centrally located and offers a great balance of comfort and accessibility.

NOTE: Your tour operator selects your hotels according to your tour type and budget. In case you are doing an independent trip, I added a list of the best hotels in Ashgabat at the end of this article.

The first day is considered more an arrival day, so there was nothing particular in the itinerary, so I was able to walk around the area and get a first impression of this weird capital.

Read more: How many blank passport pages you need to enter Turkmenistan

What makes Ashgabat such a weird city?

Ashgabat is one of the most surreal cities in the world, known for its gleaming white marble buildings and oversized monuments. It feels oddly empty, with vast boulevards and public spaces that seem more for show than for daily life. The city’s strict government control adds to its strange atmosphere, making it feel like a grand but quiet display rather than a bustling capital. Walking through Ashgabat feels like stepping into a futuristic ghost town.

Independent Activities around the Grand Turkmen Hotel

Visit the Monument of Akhal-Teke horses: This huge monument is a cool introduction to Ashgabat. It shows this display of marble, gold and giant horses in one single location.

Wander through the Russian Bazaar: This lively local market is the best place to interact with locals, buy traditional souvenirs, and grab local street food like shashlik and samsa.

Take a walk along the Inspiration Park: This park is a perfect place for a quiet walk. You’ll pass some older buildings (of course white), a few fountains, and perfectly manicured gardens.  A stop at Sha Coffee is sooo worth it

Read more: 5 extreme places you can visit all over the world

Day 2: Ashgabat and the Silk Road Heritage

Day two took me deeper into the history and culture of Ashgabat. I got picked up relatively late (9:30 AM) with a private vehicle and we explored some of the capital’s most iconic spots while learning about its heritage.

We pass next to some of the weird monuments and buildings mentioned on YouTube videos and I was able to stop and take photos whenever I wanted – except Government buildings.

Things we did

• National Museum of History: This museum provides a deep dive into the country’s past, from the Silk Road to Soviet influence. Entry was not incluided and I had to use the offic 10 EUR, and a guide is recommended.
• Turkmen Carpet Museum: A hidden gem for anyone interested in the country’s tradition of carpet weaving. Entry costs around 8 EUR.
• Driving Tour around Ashgabat: This part of the tour was simply driving around the city and stopping in several monuments. I was able to step down at any of those and take photos. I didn’t enter the giant indoor ferries wheel, but I’m sure this can be arranged in advanced.  

Late afternoons were mostly free. I used this time to get a local SIM card, walk a bit around the city and visit one or two local’s favorite cafes. In the evening most tours include visits to some of the nicest restaurants in Ashgabat (which are quite pretty).

Independent Activities:

Ashgabat’s Parks and Fountains: Ashgabat is known for its pristine parks and fountains, which are scattered all over the city. Stroll through parks like Gül Zemin, located near the Presidential Palace. These are free, and perfect for relaxing or people-watching.

Arch of Neutrality: Walk or take a taxi to this rotating golden statue of President Niyazov. While climbing the monument requires a guide, admiring it from below and walking around the area can be done independently.

Read more: Which Are the Weirdest Buildings and Monuments in Ashgabat?

Getting Around Ashgabat independently

Getting around Ashgabat is relatively straightforward. The city is walkable in certain areas like the central district around Independence Monument. For longer distances, Yandex.Taxi (similar to Uber) is the easiest and most reliable way to move around. A typical ride costs 5-7 EUR, and prices are often negotiated upfront – payment only in cash.

Using Couchsurfing was also a great option to get a better understanding of the country by a local. Most Couchsurfers in Ashgabat were traveled people excited to show their country.

Day 3: Ashgabat – Kow Ata, Geok Tepe, Bagir

With only a few days and a few places to see outside Ashgabat, my took took me to the highlights located outside the capital. We went to several locations, where we spend around 1-2 hours in each one.

Since I was also traveling on a private group, I didn’t feel the tour was in rush and I was able to stay as long or as short as I wanted.

Best things to see outside Ashgabat

Kow Ata Underground Lake: Located 1,5 hours away from Ashgabat, Kow Ata, also known as the “Father of Caves” was our first stop. This underground lake is renowned for its warm, mineral-rich waters and healing properties. It’s a popular spot among both locals and tourists who come to swim in the therapeutic waters. It was a nice spot —dark, humid, and filled with the earthy smell of mineral-rich water. There were also not many tourists (basically nobody) and I was able to put my feet on the water.

Gokdepe Village & Ahal-Teke Horses: We also stopped at the village of Gokdepe, where I visited the Arkadash stud farm. This farm is also home to the prized Ahal-Teke horses, a breed known for their beauty. You can see, feed, and even ride these majestic animals. Gokdepe itself is a historically significant site, as it was the location of the largest battle for Russian control in Central Asia during the 19th century.

Kipchak Village: On the way back to Ashgabat, we passed through Kipchak village, where I could stop by at the largest mosque in Turkmenistan. It’s quite a nice structure, but nothing compared to the mosques in the Middle East or other parts of Central Asia. This site also contains the family mausoleum of the first president of Turkmenistan, adding a touch of modern political history to your journey.

Old Nisa (UNESCO World Heritage Site): Just 15 km outside of Ashgabat, we explored the ruins of Old Nisa, one of the earliest capitals of the Parthian Empire. Old Nisa was once a hub of strategic and commercial importance, linking East and West. We walked through the ruins, and learned more about its historical importance. The site offers nice views of the surrounding landscape and it was a good spot for photos.

Day 4: The Darvaza Gas Crater

On day four, we left the capital behind and set off on a road trip to the Darvaza Gas Crater, commonly referred to as the Gates of Hell. This is probably the one attraction everyone in Turkmenistan visits and it was quite exciting to leave the city.

The journey took about four hours through barren desert landscapes. It’s essential to have a sturdy 4×4 for this leg of the trip, and Ayan Travel provided a reliable vehicle. Half of the road is in perfect condition, but the last 50km were quite a journey.

For lunch, we stopped in a village where I was able to learn more about Turkmen culture and life outside the capital. This was quite shocking, as life in Ashgabat is completely different than life outside.

What to Expect in Darvaza

The Darvaza Gas Crater is an unforgettable sight — a giant, flaming pit that has been burning for decades. As the sun sets, the glow from the crater becomes even more intense, making it the perfect time for photographs. My guide from Ayan Travel had arranged for camping near the crater, where we sat around a campfire and enjoyed a traditional Turkmen meal.

Before leaving Ashgabat, we also stopped in a beer shop and got a few drinks for the night. I was fortunately during a low season at the crater and there were only 5-6 other people that night camping with me.

This made a huge difference for me to select a private tour to visit Turkmenistan. I can imagine how annoying it could be being on a big group. At some point and for many hours, it was just me and my guide sitting next to the crater and talking about life.

Independent Activities:

Explore the Altyn Asyr Bazaar (Tolkuchka Bazaar): I asked my guide to stop here on the way back from the crater. This is one of the largest markets in Central Asia, and while it’s a bit outside the city center, you can visit in an independent tour. It’s a great place to observe shops for carpets, spices, and handcrafted goods.

Day 5: Back to Ashgabat and city exploration

The drive back from Darvaza is long. This made this day more as a transition day to recover some energy and do some last minute sightseeing. I talked with my guide which places I wanted to see again or just stay home and get ready to get back home.

I used the time to walk more around the area, visit a few cafes and bars by myself and take some photos I was not able to take because I was in a rush the days before.

At night, I used the opportunity to ask my guide to take me on a night tour. This was one of the coolest things I did in the city, as Ashgabat looks completely different once the sun sets.

Most interesting buildings and monuments in Ashgabat

• The monument to the giant book of Ruhnama
• The “Olympic” village
• Ashgabat’s Wedding Palace
• Turkmenistan TV Tower
• Yyldyz Hotel
• The Indoor Ferries Wheel
• The Golden Dog monument

Optional 8-Day Extension

For those with more time, I recommend extending this trip to eight days, which allows for more in-depth exploration of Turkmenistan’s natural wonders. Some additional highlights include:

• Merv, Gyz Gala and Kyz Kala Fortresses: Merv is one of the most important historical sites in the region. The galas, are on the other hand, mudbrick fortifications date back to the 6th century and provide a glimpse into the architectural prowess of the ancient Turkmens.

• Yangykala Canyon: Often compared to the Grand Canyon, this site is breathtaking and worth the journey.
• Konye-Urgench: Another UNESCO site, this ancient city played a key role in the Silk Road trade network.

How Much Does It Cost?

Prices for a 5-day tour start at around 1600 EUR for a solo traveler with Ayan Travel, but if you book a group tour, the price can drop to 600-700 EUR per person. European companies like Lupine Travel offer group tours that range between 1200-1500 EUR. These prices include accommodation, transport, and a guide, but exclusions usually cover meals, entrance fees, and any personal expenses.

If you prefer a private tour, prices tend to be higher, but the level of customization and flexibility is unbeatable. Group tours, while cheaper, may feel rushed, and you might miss out on some lesser-known spots.

Best cafes to explore independently in Ashgabat

Here’s a list of cool cafes in Ashgabat where travelers can relax and enjoy coffee or light meals:

Karakum Coffee

• A cozy and modern coffee spot in Ashgabat, known for serving good quality coffee, teas, and light snacks. It’s a favorite hangout spot for locals and expats.
• Location: City Center, near the Berkarar Mall

Coffee House

• A trendy cafe offering a variety of coffee drinks, smoothies, and desserts. The ambiance is warm and welcoming, perfect for relaxing or catching up on some work.
• Location: Central Ashgabat, near Neutrality Avenue

Art Café

• Known for its quirky decor and relaxed atmosphere, Art Café serves delicious coffee and local snacks. It’s a great spot for a casual hangout or a break after sightseeing.
• Location: Close to the Ertugrul Gazi Mosque

Café 7/24

• A simple but modern café offering 24-hour service. Known for its coffee, quick meals, and relaxed environment, it’s an easy stop for travelers looking for a convenient spot.
• Location: Central Ashgabat

Best hotels in Ashgabat

Even though your hotel will be 99% booked by your tour operator, you can still give them indications where you want to stay and what is your budget. These are some of the hotels you can stay in Ashgabat that are worth a visit.

1. Oguzkent Hotel (Yyldyz Hotel)

• Rating: Highly regarded for its luxury, this 5-star hotel is a top choice for business travelers and diplomats. It offers modern rooms, a spa, fitness center, and restaurants with a view of the city.

2. Grand Turkmen Hotel

• Rating: Popular among travelers for its central location and affordability compared to other 5-star options. It’s known for good service and comfortable rooms.

3. Archabil Hotel

• Rating: Another top-rated hotel with a mix of luxury and comfort, often used by business travelers. It offers spacious rooms and a wide range of amenities.

Final Tips for Travelers

Money: Credit cards are rarely accepted, so bring cash — USD and EUR are the most accepted. My guide helped me exchange money at the unofficial rate, which was 7-8 times better than the official one. Avoid using credit cards as you’ll get a bad rate.

Connectivity: Getting connected in Turkmenistan is a challenge. I used TMCELL, which offers local SIM cards for foreigners at a much higher price than for locals. A SIM card costs around 35 EUR with 20 EUR for 2GB of data. Internet is slow and unreliable, especially outside major cities.

Getting Around: Ashgabat is easy to explore on foot, and taxis are cheap and reliable. For inter-city travel, your tour operator will arrange private transportation, which is the most convenient way to move around.